Sunday, February 13, 2011

Dunedin

I think valentines was more fun the first time Lindsay woke me up. Valentines at 5:00 in the morning is a bit more harsh, but thanks to Lindsay, it looks like she caught us up to date- almost. Let me tell you about dunedin!

Our first 2 nights were spent in ramsay's lodge - a really nice hostel, but a really bad location. However, that didn't stop us from getting up and walking around the city to check out the attractions (and summer sales).

Oh man, the janitor is mopping us up in a trap of surrounding wet floor. This new janitor really is something else.

Back to Dunedin though, the place is full of nice buildings, historic churches, colleges, hotels, everything! One of our favorite activities was climbing the steepest residential road in the world! Baldwin street. not something you get to do everyday! Unless Ofcourse you were one of the unfortunate house owners on the top that had to honk at all the tourists to move out of the way before driving through. We also enjoyed the museum, botanic gardens and flower market during our stay.

The night life was quite fun in Dunedin as well- one night we met Jacob Black (New Moon) and Justin Bieber look-alikes. We also met a couple Maori boys (Jacob black was one Aka Shane) who serenaded us with their traditional Hakka dance. Its lots of fun travelling when the cities are a bit smaller (I think population was about 130000) because by our last few days it wasn't uncommon that we regularly bumped into a friend we had made somewhere around town.

This morning we headed out and hitched a couple rides getting us to... The middle of no where. We had good company though, a park ranger drove us an extra 45 minutes out of his way to get us to the location we needed to be to get on the right highway. He also gave us some contacts of his for when we head to Australia. After about a hopeless 20 minute wait on the side of the highway, some guys we had been hanging out with the previous night pulled up. It was such a relief! Joe and Vince (californians) were headed -more or less- in the same direction as us- through the catlins.
We crammed in the back of their two door car, bags on lap, and headed out for a day of roadtripping!
Our first stop was to some waterfalls through a rainforest. Next, we hit up a beach to see if the waves were any good for joe's surfing. The waves were great- but not ao much for surfing, we headed to a petrified forest next. Nothing quite as thrilling as a 170 million year old tree!
Our last stop before invercargill was at the southern most tip of the south island. We may have even seen Antarctica (I wish, couldn't even see Stuart island) however, we figured this isthe farthest south we'll likely ever get. In invercargill we drove around the city, checking out the park and downtown area before heading to the side of the highway to eat our dinner with some fellow hitchhikers we had seen earlier.
Joe and Vince then abandoned us at the mcdonalds before heading back north to Dunedin. Which brings us to this fateful night of hourly sleep shifts in the chain mcdonalds! Mm I think it's time for an ice cream cone!
-LA

Moeraki beach and boulders

We hitched out of timaru with a university student heading down to Dunedin. It was swelteringly hot, and we were happy to be of the stuffy car and at the beach. We spent two nights in Moeraki, day one - beachcombing, exploring, reading Elizabeth and then seeing the penguin and seal colonies that evening. Day 2- checked out the boulders (neat giant spheres and tourist central) then lazed around on the beach until the rising tide kicked us out
-LH

(I feel like frodo and Sam from lotr where they take turns staying up all night to keep guard. The real question, who would be who?)

Down by the bay

Timaru once again! ( can't stay away?) We spent one night at a hostel in town, and the next morning went down to the bay to meet with Peter. It was great to see him again, and the bay was beautiful! We have vowed to spend no more time in that area! Time to get movin again
-LH

Omg new staff member came in, she's the official janitor!

Apple pie??

Omg what if I got an apple pie instead of fries?!?

Peter was planning to be in Timaru in a weeks time, and wanting to see him, we filled the remaining time with a lil more wwoofing. This time, at a farm near Oamaru. Oamaru itself, which we tented in on our last night was lots of fun. Full of Victorian architecture, thirt stores and art galleries, it served us well!
Our second 'time filler' was inthe small town of Waimati, with a family of ex travelling gypsies. Their dog ate our cookies :(

Mount Cook Yo!

Hitching out of tekapo proved challenging, when the rabbit hunter who took us part way left us in the middle of the highway. Luckily, a van of travelers from isreal came to our rescue just before it started to pour.
We arrived at mount cook national park and opted for a night in a hostel ( it was raining like crazy!). Even so, we immediately headed out on a hike, completely drenching my day pack, and unfortunately the iPod in my pocket. Rip.
The next day we walked down the deserted highway to the white horse campground, where we would spend an additional three nights. On day one we did the hooker valley hike - lovely! Day two, the red tarns hike (hcore uphill but finishing way up in the sky with an amazing few.. And aching ankles). Day3- took it easy, venturing out to sit on some boulders near the sparkling blue and grey waters of the mueller glacier.
It was also in Mt cook that we were introduced to Elizabeth (!!!). She is a 'modern girl' and the main character in the book we found in the camp kitchen and have been reading outload since. To lighten the load, we burn the pages after reading them hahah

Paint water

After our long wwoofing stretch we needed a vacation! We hitched out of Timaru and west to lake tekapo! I wish we could upload pictures, but even they don't do it justice. The lake was the prettiest colour of blue.. Like paint water almost! This colour was caused by minerals in the water from the glaciers it derives from, but made for an absolutely beautiful landscape. We tented two nights at tekapo, nestled into a lovely little hiding spot in the bush. Rabits galore! We did a couple of nice hikes while out there, and Lauren ripped her pants in half trying to do some yoga in the park
Shout out to the YHA for unwillingly providing us with their kitchen and showers ;)

TreeHuggers!

I am trying to strategize my frie purchase to ensure maximum fullness/ legitimacy for still being here. Today was a day of little food..
Breakfast - instant coffee, half a banana and one piece of bannock (the size of a mandarin orange)
Lunch - three tiny meatballs and one piece of cheese
Dinner - half a can of beans, mixed with one piece of cheese and half a piece of bannock, and one 'noodles for one' pack Mmm
11:30 - McCafe Icecream

Anyways! After leaving Davids, we stayed in the area and headed over to TreeHugger Organics. TreeHuggers was a fruit and vege farm producing mainly strawberries, along with garlic, honey and potatos. Here there were several other wwoofers, and it was loads of fun! Although the work days were long (with everyone rockin their very own strawberry picking sunburn trampstamp) we were fed and watered (they brewed their own beer) exceptionally well!
Never have I consumed so much garlic! Cough infront of Nathan and the whole house had to each eat a clove. TreeHuggers was our longest stay in one location, at 1.5 weeks. On our last day we even watched piglets be born! (then ate ham at the grocery store for lunch.. Lol)
-LH

Cow Whisperer

Our next home was with David, a kind man wanting company. We kept busy doing paintings, baking, and becoming professional farmers. David did not live in your typical house. He resided in what use to be a shearing shed, refurnished to be a home. However the shearing room was still used as a shearing room, doubling as our art studio. Luckily, cleaning floors was really easy there, as he had no windows in the large swinging doors, so when it rained, EVERYTHING got wet. And it rained everyday!
His place was very calming and we soon found ourselves falling in a daily ritual. Painting and baking most of the day, joining David to herd the animals or milk the cow. Everyday I took time from my day to chill with the cows. By the end of our stay I had most of them named and was able to put them all to sleep by playing them some Debussy from my iPod. To say the least- we bonded. Ha
I think it's safe to say Lindsay and I both have the potential to be qualified farmers and farmers wives now.
-LA

Life gets rough

Perhaps the beginning of adopting mcdonalds as our home, on January 5, we found ourselves sprawled on their couches. Unfortunatly, the Timaru mcdonalds closes at 11, so shortly after, we set out to find a place to pitch our tent. What better place than the park behind mcdonalds?? We headed to the far side of the park, next to the ocean and train tracks. However, after some vehicles pulled in the parking lot and lingered for awhile, left and then the scene repeated with another vehicle, we figured we were in a bad location. 12:30, we unpeg our tent, pick it up (still set up) and carried it over our heads across the park and huddled in right behind mcdonalds (our protector). Lindsay slept with a knife in her hand that night. I slept with chainmail on incase she had a nightmare.
-LA

Bohemian love huts??

Our first real hitchhiking adventure began on our way to anchorage. After about a 3 minute wait, we were picked up by a couple of guys who were also on their way to do some camping in anchorage. They stopped on the way at a wine and cheese shop, purchasing champagne and some fancy cheese and crackers that we on in the shade of a tree.
We soon found ourselves at our next wwoofing destination- tree crop farms- bohemian love huts and gardens. We did some gardening, housework and some cleaning of the love huts. To say the least, I'm not sure it was always candle wax we were scraping off the surfaces. We didn't last there long, but I must admit, her place was very nicely decorated in a medieval type way, and she fed us very well.
-LA

New years

Christmas marked the end of our busing days. We eased into hitchhiking- first by catching a ride with lynn's step sons mates- Jeff, Cheyne, and Jared. They were nice guys who took us to Christchurch and then treated us to dinner and drinks. 
Later in the evening we met up with Joe- our Canadian buddy from linda's. We were sharing a flat with him over the weekend courtesy of Linda and Mike. 
Our New Years was one we will never forget. Set in, what is called sol square.  A back alley that leads to a square full of bars stacked upon eachother. The place was overflowing with people- it could have been out of the movies.
Ofcourse, we had to celebrate Canadian new years as well. To say the least, the weekend was a memorable one.
-LA

Christmas time!

We headed back to Wellington for Christmas. Peter and Del welcomed us into their home to celebrate the season with them. I can promise you, this is the first Christmas that I got a sun burn. It was also the first Christmas that we had fresh berries and vegetables from the garden for dinner. Not to mention the homemade egg nog! A very delightful experience!

~> back to the future

Something about waking up in mcdonalds on valentines day is just uber special. The clock is about to strike 1 and so far, so good.
It's an odd experience sleeping in mcdonalds. Your nose starts to get a bit stuffy. My bet is, it's either from the pop Lindsay mentioned earlier, or what I believe, must be the air. According to my calculations, with every breath of lucious mcdonalds air inhaled, you get approximately 19% of your daily fat intake, 13% of cholesterol, and 4% of your sugars. Not a bad deal I'd say.

Really though, I have gained a higher respect for mcdonalds. Putting all things aside, they have offered us a couch to sleep on when everyone else locks us out, free wifi to keep in contact with fam and friends, and ofcourse, the legendary pig fat on a cone for the great price of only 60 cents. (also commonly known as a soft serve cone) who could complain?
Every company starts out small, they just had the opportunity to expand- not saying I'll stop supporting the local shops, but until I can afford a place to sleep, mcdonalds will be a second home.

-LA

Surfwatch

While at the staging post, we were introduced to Lynn, who was to be our second wwoof host. We loved our time in kaikoura with her, husband David, and dog Layla! Our jobs there were slightly less typical.. Including being clowns at the mall, caroling, walking goats and feeding alpapcas! She also took us on trips down to the beach, to see the seals, to the waterfall and in to town to shop! Needless to say, we loved Lynn! She and David alsO taught us some great vegetarian meals. Ever wanting a luxurious stay in kaikoura? Surfwatch all the way!
-Lh

The staging post

Our first wwoof location, the staging post, was just south west of kaikoura. After our arrival, several DVD days were to follow.. Infact, every day! ( wind? Rain? Sun?
- DVD day) Here,we met fellow wwoofer and Canadian Joe! Also in the house were the three westies meesh meesh, Harry and Churchill, as well as the 18 yr old cat squeaks (squid?)
Overall we had a nice time, walking the kaikoura coastal track, feeding the wrong horses and making Linda think hers was dead, painting the floor, and drinking margaritas by the pool.

{oh, I dont want that!}

-Lh (srry forgot to do that to the last two)

Stonehurst

Christchurch was full of fun times: paragliding, botanic gardens, art galleries, endless trips to to pack and save! But, perhaps our favorite memories are that of our hostel. Stonehurst was the cheapest place we could find, but our room was surprisingly nice! ( besides the Asian girl who hadn't moved from her bed in days and was beginning to ferment).
Folk at Stonehurst:
1. Laren the slavanian - he seemed great and wanted to travel to Queenstown with us, but the night before we were destined to leave, he spent 10 minutes screaming and swearing at the whole grocery store because he was ID'd and denied a bottle of wine. He went to Queenstown alone
2. The French boys - presumably good at staring contests.. Not very good at being subtle.
3. The Swedish girl - screams 'is something wrong?!?' at them after 20 minutes without them blinking
4. The 40 yr old - mocked which tea cups we used (???) for tree nights then tried to offer us beers (nah thanks bro ur my dads age)
5. Bart - walks past us on the street, then two minutes later comes running after us to askfor our number. We'll admit, his gangsta nz slang has provided hours of entertainment

Despite our time of travel, we felt no eathquakes! ( bitter or sweet we couldnt decide)

Is this guy real?

Okay cool shift number one commenses. My throat kind of hurts, hopefully not from drinking the glass of coke already waiting for us apon our arrival. Anyways, after our summit of Franz we figured we would live in the lap of luxury (contrary to this instanse) and take the trans apline train through arthurs pass. It departed from greymouth, taking us through the scenic southern alps and to the east coast city of Christchurch. The 50 yr old couple across from us kept sneaking beers out of their bags when the workers werent looking and there was a guy dressed up like a 1940's train men, but it was pretty fun! When we arrived im Christchurch we remembered that we had no food, plans, maps or place to stay.. Bt after a welcoming hug from a drunk man sitting in a park, we quickly settled in. (but not with the drunk man lol)

The sixth toe

I just finished a load of our dinner dishes in the mcdonalds bathroom. If anything cuts through grease, it'll be mcdonalds very own soap. Also, you should also see the plungers they use to compact the garbage in the rubbish bins. Backpacking is so educational!

The sixth toe was born in Abel Tasman.
Allow me to share with you a journal entry I wrote on dec 1 2010, 10:25pm- YHA hostel lounge- Franz Josef 

"I think the 6th toe is growing. It resides between the big toe and it's neighbour- or what used to be the neighbour. Once just a small blister, now a whole other occupant of the upper foot region. We're all at peace though; until something blows up atleast. Hopefully that will not happen."

I regret to inform you, the sixth toe no longer travels with us to this date. 
My ma hates it when I share stories such as this, so to balance it out, I will tell you about the glacier we climbed in Franz Josef. 
It was a soaring 1500 meters to the top and we summited it- free solo style. It was a gruesome climb to the top, but the refreshing ice water urged us on. Ofcourse, the only way to descend is to be lowered through the ice  crack down the ever fragile cliffside that claims 30 tourist lives yearly. We made it though. Anythings possible with a little self determination.

Yeah okay, I truly do wish that did happen, but my ma would have killed me before any cliffside took my life. The half day tour we took was great fun though and we were able to have a short taste of the snow your all are inhabited within. 
Perhaps this is my que to take a sleep break. 
-LA

Pancake rocks and disapproving mothers

Ah yes, this is when our eating habits become a bit more rugged. On the plus side, this is also the event that brought us to getting a can opener for Christmas! What lucky kids we are! (you may recall the video of us opening a can of beans via knife {only one finger was lost - sacrifices are mandatory in terms of survival})
Back to the pancake rocks- these are located in Punakaiki. It took us approximately a week to figure out the proper pronunciation. (poo-na-cock-ee) haha
-LA

Nelson and Abel Tasman

This is quite some time ago, but if my memory doesn't deceive me, it was a good time. Nelson is the center of New Zealand. It also happens to be one of the sunniest places. At this point in our travels, we still ate whole-hearted meals, traveled by bus, and paid a minimum of $25 a night for hostels. What a luxerious life!
Abel Tasman was breathtaking to say the least. If you can imagine bright blue oceans, pristine beaches, rain forest jungles and creeks, streams and small waterfalls, then you may be able to imagine a tenth of how amazing it really was. We did two days of tramping here and had our first encounter with fellow Canadians (which was pretty exciting at the time).
-LA

To sleep at the mcdonalds or not sleep at the mcdonalds? That is the question.

We finally got Internet!! Haha.. Jk
Here's the situation. We're stuck in the southern most part of the south island (invercargill) and mcdonalds just seems so much more appealing to sleep in rather than a random park. So here we are, with free wifi, and our packs, but seem to have lost our dignity.. Ha so, for the rest of the night, Lindsay and I will take shifts posting the last three months of our travel, while the other nonchalantly sleeps (perhaps in the childrens play tunnels). Sit back, relax (or try to) and enjoy the read :)